HECTOR MACLEAN
Hector
Maclean
In a dimly lit wine bar tucked away in the depths of Soho, I sat down with my dear friend, British designer Hector Maclean. From the very beginning, our friendship, much like Hector’s career, has been guided by what he once described as ‘a gentle stroke of serendipity’. For him, the most defining muses, collaborators, and creative turning points never arrive through force, but through alignment. They appear exactly when they’re meant to, as if by fate.
Maclean has built a world rooted in sustainability, narrative expression and a profound admiration for powerful women. Not only does he surround himself with strong, bold, and fiercely creative women, but they continuously define, shape and fuel his designs. With his latest collection, The Girl Who Ate the Dragon, just coming to a close, we reflect on growth, identity and the beautiful unpredictability that seems to follow him wherever he goes.
He is a rare presence in British fashion, who produces work which evokes echoes of a bygone era: haunting yet romantic and, in Maclean’s words, ‘modernity that meets tradition’. He pairs unceasing sophistication with a sustaining present-tense energy, creating a dichotomy that feels at once nostalgic and distinctly contemporary.
Quietly yet powerfully, he’s shifting the boundaries of what British fashion can be, and it excites me endlessly.
The brand is something else. She’s decadent but destroyed. A woman who’s been through a lot but remains strong, empowered, intelligent, whimsical, damaged, but perfect.
Alexandra Georgette Oley: How does it feel to have completed another season?
Hector Maclean: It feels incredible. I’m still unbelievably knackered, even a month after the show, but I think that’s just part of the process when you’re designing, especially as you start to establish yourself as a label. Things progress, and you realise this happens every six months, possibly for the rest of your life. You start dividing your life not by years but by fashion seasons, and that’s an interesting way to rule your life.
AO: You once said that it feels like a kind of death when a season ends. Can you explain what you mean by that?
Hector: Every collection feels, in some way, like an exorcism. You’re releasing a part of yourself that’s been hidden deep inside, giving it form and life. Once you express it, you realise these shapes, ideas, and feelings have lived within you for a long time. There’s a sense of death in that. For months, you are the work, and then suddenly you have to let it go. It’s difficult, because once you release a body of art into the world, it no longer belongs to you. It belongs to everyone else. Finishing a project means saying goodbye to a version of yourself.
AO: Are you happy to say goodbye to it?
Hector: Yes. I feel like I left the dragon in the mountains. We just shot our campaign with a beautiful team in the Pyrenees, and it felt as though I left a part of myself there in the caves, breathing fire, and just having a great time.
I think with every collection, you leave a piece of yourself behind. You bring it into existence, and in doing so, it takes on a life of its own. You’ve given birth to something that now exists beyond you, something that grows into more than just your own.
AO: Quite poetic really. I feel like most people have no idea what goes into putting a show together. What would you say are the most challenging and the most rewarding parts, particularly for this season?
Hector: Season to season, it changes so much. That’s what makes it so exciting. Sometimes things flow smoothly, and other times it’s far more complicated. A model might be exactly what you’re envisioning, but casting can be tricky; a fabric might work beautifully, but a single dress can become highly, highly complicated. The world changes, the problems change, and no two seasons are ever the same. That’s why I love it so much.
AO: Which look this season did you find the most challenging to bring to life?
Hector: Oh my gosh! We were still perfecting the Damsel dress right up until the very last moment. We’d been working on it for four months, and I wasn’t even sure it would make it into the show. It was a dream, but incredibly complicated, because I usually make a lot of the collection myself. Putting my trust in others was really difficult for me but learning to do that was such an important part of this season.
AO: Do you feel that this latest collection fully captured the vision you had in mind? Did seeing it on the catwalk make you feel like it truly came to life and resonated as you’d imagined?
Hector: I liked it, but it wasn’t everything I was hoping it would be, though maybe that’s just part of the process. If it were perfect, maybe there would be something wrong with me. I wanted the silhouettes to be much bigger, but working with sustainable fabrics, sourcing ethically, and using deadstock makes it really hard to get large amounts of material. I wished the collection could have been bigger, bolder, darker, more macabre, and that the staging included fire as we were intending initially. It captured the essence of what I wanted, but I haven’t fully achieved everything I desire yet. Still, it’s a promising start. I’d say we’re about 50% there… maybe 43%.
AO: I feel like you’re being a bit harsh on yourself.
Hector: I work in fashion. [Both laugh]
If I’m not going to be hard on myself, critics bloody well will.
AO: Do you feel like you got the support you needed as a British designer, especially now that so many designers are choosing to show in Paris?
Hector: There isn’t a huge amount of support in the UK for British designers. We’ve been desperately searching for funding, doing everything on a shoestring. I’ve searched for every kind of grant, sponsorship, and opportunity for backing, and it’s been incredibly hard. That said, thank goodness to the kind, wonderful people who stepped in to help us this past season.
AO: Right after your show, we travelled to your family home in rural Southern France. You’ve described it as the only home you’ve ever truly known, given how much you moved as a child, and it clearly holds a special place in your heart. Many of your family members share that connection, and you always return there after every collection. It feels like a return to a sense of normalcy. Do you see this as a tradition you’ll continue, or are you considering new rituals as your brand continues to grow?
Hector: It’s always been the only home we’ve ever had. A literal shack in the mountains, no windows, completely run-down and falling apart. For most of my life, we rented, so this became the one place we could truly call home. We’d even experienced being homeless a few times growing up, so this spot was the only place where we knew we couldn’t be kicked out of. Even though it was barely a proper roof over our heads; bedraggled and crumbling, it was ours. It’s the only place that’s ever felt completely safe in the world.
AO: That’s incredibly touching. It feels even more powerful knowing we shot the campaign in France, so close to your home. From the very start, you knew this collection had to be captured there. That was always the end goal.
Hector: I’ve seen those caves so many times and have always felt there’s no better setting. You simply can’t dream of anything better. To me, it’s one of the most beautiful places in the world. Using a studio would have felt like such a loss when you have that natural backdrop. The caves are so grand and otherworldly. It was just one of those opportunities I simply could not let go of. ‘It felt like the exact right moment at the exact right time’.
AO: How did it feel to see the campaign finally come to life after imagining it for so long? Did it turn out the way you envisioned, and did it live up to your expectations?
Hector: I think so… You know, it’s funny. When you’re creating any kind of art, you inevitably have to compromise your vision through the people you collaborate with. It transforms into something else that’s not necessarily yours or what you thought it would be. It becomes different, often stronger in unexpected ways. That’s the beauty of collaboration: it’s rarely the exact picture in your mind, but somehow it becomes better.
AO: I suppose it really comes down to the team around you and having trust in that support system. It feels like you fully embraced that this season. For the past four seasons, you’ve done almost everything yourself, but this time you genuinely let others in. Was that challenging for you, or are you glad you made that choice?
Hector: It’s incredibly hard to give up control. I think anyone in a creative field can relate to that. When you surrender your art to someone else, it stops being entirely yours. It becomes filtered through their interpretation – the way they handle your creation, your baby. That’s terrifying, exhausting, and scary. But as you grow a brand, you have to accept that it can’t belong only to you anymore. It becomes something shaped by many hands.
AO: Was there a single standout moment from this campaign?
Hector: We had just driven up a dirt track, wind whipping around us, rain starting to fall, and we were racing up the side of the mountain for the final shot. By the time we reached the summit, we’d lost the light in the most perfect way. It was tragic, dark, and beautiful all at once. It was cinematic in the most incredible way.
AO: Do you think the image reflects that moment?
Hector: It’s possibly one of my favourite images that my clothing has ever been part of. It was simply breathtaking and just astounding.
AO: You’ve mentioned before that you’ve already mapped out future seasons. How far ahead have you planned the journey of Hector Maclean?
Hector: I think some collections are planned as far as fifty years down the line, to be honest. [Both laugh]
There are always these retrospective ideas that sit in the back of your mind for future seasons, but the reality is you start thinking about everything – the finances, certain colours, even the scraps of fabric you’ve collected over time. You find one piece and think, ‘That’ll be perfect for a future season… but only if this falls into place, that gets sorted, and I know the right person to make it happen.’ It’s like a jigsaw puzzle: you gather the pieces, knowing they’ll eventually find their moment.
I’ve held onto fabrics for twenty years, since I was young, and then suddenly a moment arrives where I realise, ‘This is it. This is what it was meant for’. It’s the funniest thing. Sometimes I’ll grab the ugliest thread because I know I’ll need it one day or even the tiniest scrap of fabric. Eventually, it becomes perfectly perfect for something. That’s the serendipity of design.
AO: That’s such a beautifully thoughtful perspective. I love that. Can you give us even just a tiny sneak peek about what’s in store for next season?
Hector: I had originally planned to do another season before The Girl Who Ate The Dragon, but then I decided to swap them. I’ve been thinking about [this next collection] for a long time, waiting for the appropriate moment. It’s a love story dedicated to one of the most important women I’ve ever met, and I can’t wait to tell her story and let everyone see who she truly is.
AO: Over the past year, I’ve spent a lot of time with you, shadowing you, watching you work, helping build your brand, and now collaborating on a project that’s still under wraps. I feel like I’ve come to know who the real Hector Maclean is. But in your own eyes, who is the real you? And how does that differ from the version of Hector Maclean the world sees?
Hector: I think my identity and the brand are two very different things. I’m quite earthy, gritty, and a little rough around the edges. There is a cover for Dazed that perfectly captures the essence of my style: Luke Worrall split between a punk side and a preppy side. Seeing it when I was young, I thought, ‘that’s exactly what I want to be’: this weird blend of ultra-punk and ultra-preppy. I’ve carried that into my life, but the brand is something else. She’s decadent but destroyed. A woman who’s been through a lot but remains strong, empowered, intelligent, whimsical, damaged, but perfect. My muse is a very different person than me. I think we’d be friends, but the Hector Maclean woman is far more complex. I’m a much more simplistic, open hearted creature.
AO: That’s so fascinating to me, because I don’t see you as simplistic at all. To me, you’re incredibly layered. In fact, I think part of that complexity comes from the fact that you don’t let people in easily, and I understand why. You’re selective about who you trust, and given everything you’ve been through, that makes perfect sense. If you had to describe your personality in just three words, what would they be? I know, it’s the classic cliché question.
Hector: No, I love it. Heartfelt, determined, and ridiculous.
AO: Here’s a question I know you’ll hate. We’ve spoken about star signs before, and I know the topic makes you cringe – especially as a Gemini, with all the stereotypes that come with it. It’s arguably the most hated sign! [Both laugh] With how obsessed people are with astrology. How often does it come up and what’s your reaction when people hit you with the classic, ‘Oh… you’re a Gemini?’ – said in that wonderfully judgy tone?
Hector: Way too many times, people ask me, ‘What’s your star sign?’, and I avoid it at all costs. Because the moment I say, ‘Gemini’, they go, ‘Oh, no’, and I’m just sitting there thinking, I’m a nice person! It’s star sign discrimination, and I’m not down for that. All star signs are created equal. Thank you very much. [Both laugh]
AO: You’ve endured profound trauma, including a devastating accident that almost left you unable to walk. A moment that, in many ways, was a brush with death. In what ways have those experiences shaped who you are today? If they hadn’t occurred, do you think your life would have followed a different path, or does it feel as though your journey was somehow always meant to unfold this way?
Hector: I think my life would have been completely different. I would have had more opportunities. I had just graduated from university and was so ready to dive into everything. There were so many amazing jobs for graduates, which was exciting, but I lost a huge chunk of my life to it. At the same time, I’m thankful because it gave me so much empathy and understanding for others. Whenever I see someone struggling or in a wheelchair, I think, ‘I know what that’s like’. Sometimes, when I strike up a conversation, I’ll say, ‘It’s rough, isn’t it?’ because people often don’t empathise unless they’ve experienced it themselves. Learning to walk is one of the most fundamental things we do every day, and when that basic ability is taken away, it becomes incredibly hard to simply live your life.
AO: It takes real bravery to get through what you’ve been through, and the strength you’ve shown is incredibly inspiring. Do you ever feel, in some way, that it was meant to happen to you, or is it something you wish had never happened?
Hector: I truly believe everything happens for a reason. I believe in God, so I trust that no matter how painful or awful something is, it serves a purpose. The reason we’re here, experiencing life, is to learn these lessons.
AO: You’ve mentioned a few times that your ultimate dream is to become the creative director of Dior. Why Dior?
Hector: Dior has an incredible legacy. As we were saying before, France holds a very special place in my heart, and Dior feels like the quintessential French brand. I’ve always admired what Christian Dior created: his silhouettes, his ethos, his unique way of seeing the world. It’s breathtaking. And I love John Galliano as well. With my former mentor and employer, Jonathan [Anderson], being there and the work he’s doing, it feels like a place I could one day see myself. It’s always been a dream, ever since the Galliano era.
AO: You’re incredibly driven, and earlier you described yourself as determined. You’re also extremely ambitious. I know you sometimes joke about how much work means to you, but I think we’re both the kind of people who set these crazy goals for ourselves and just keep pushing. Have you always been like that?
Hector: I hate being bored. One dangerous thing I’ve done – which I think many people do – is throw myself into work when home life feels difficult or even traumatic. I did that a lot, but I love what I do, and now, in fashion, I’m living my dream. I couldn’t be more thankful for the opportunity to express myself through clothing, to say everything I’ve always wanted to say, and to empower both women and men.
AO: Sometimes you’ll message or email me about work at midnight or even two in the morning. Have you always been like that, even when you were younger?
Hector: I’m a complete night owl – my entire family is. I just went back home and woke up around three in the morning. I thought, ‘Oh, I don’t want to wake anyone’, but everyone was already awake, creating and being ridiculous. And I thought, ‘Ah, yes, home. I love this’. I’ve always been like that. If I couldn’t sleep, I’d just sketch.
AO: Your collections often celebrate powerful, matriarchal women. Is that intentional, inspired by the women in your own life? How does it influence both your work and the people you choose to surround yourself with?
Hector: Subconsciously, I naturally surround myself with strong, empowered, feisty women. These are the women who change the world. I was raised by an incredibly powerful, beautiful, hilarious, hardworking mother, and I have a sister whose presence radiates any room. Seeing how women have been so downtrodden by society makes me angry and disappointed, so I choose to be around women who are unapologetically strong, what some might call ‘dragon ladies’. That was a big part of last season too: celebrating these dragon women, showing that they are incredible, that they deserve empowerment, a voice, and the chance to shine. I’ll make all the time in the world for strong women, and I want to put them on the biggest platform I possibly can.
AO: Well, as a strong woman, I love that answer. Your approach to design feels so refreshing and distinct from what we’re seeing in fashion right now – almost like you’re reawakening something. Does that excite you as a designer?
Hector: Yes! I genuinely believe that to be modern, you have to look back first. With more fabric, time, a team, and financing, I think we could push even further into modernity. Modern design is complex. Experimenting with innovative textiles, like we did this season with 3D printing, or using fabrics that are kind to the skin, requires resources. You need boning, fusing, and the right support to create incredible shapes. Growing as a designer means bringing to life the ideas and visions I’ve always imagined. Once you achieve that, what remains is pure modernity, and that’s exactly the direction I feel we’re moving in now.
AO: When you talk about fabrics that are good for the skin, it’s in the context of today’s world. We’re surrounded by things that are quietly toxic – paints on our walls, the pans we cook with – so why should our clothes be any different? It’s about reverting that same idea to what we wear every day and creating fabrics that are actually healthy for the body.
Hector: Exactly. There are incredible innovations, like chitosan, that can be woven into clothing. It’s fantastic for people with severe skin allergies. There are so many materials now that are genuinely beneficial for the body and the skin. Right now, we’re constantly surrounded by plastic, integrating it into our daily lives, and that’s not good for us. I’m not saying I’ll never use synthetics – sometimes they’re necessary for certain fabrics – but my goal is to push clothing forward in a way that benefits the wearer. People shouldn’t have to compromise by wearing something that could intoxicate their bodies.
Luxury isn’t just about what people wear. It’s about thinking beyond that — about the customer and enriching their life. It’s about creating clothing that doesn’t just look good but also supports their health and wellbeing.
AO: You’ve said to me a few times – and I’ll quote you here – ‘This is all I’ve ever wanted’. I genuinely believe you’re on the verge of becoming one of the most talked-about British designers of our time. There’s such a buzz around you; people are drawn to your energy. With all that momentum building, how does it feel to sense this shift and to see the narrative growing around your name?
Hector: It’s a strange feeling, finally having people start to see what I’ve always been trying to show them. When your body of work grows enough, people can begin to understand the universe you’re building, and I feel like that universe is slowly taking shape. When I think back to my time at J.W. Anderson, I remember working there and sensing an essence in Jonathan’s work, though I didn’t fully understand it at the time. Then I watched it blossom, and I thought, ‘I can do that’. Seeing how he approached things inspired me, and in many ways, I’ve tried to follow in his footsteps. Vivienne [Westwood] was also incredibly kind to me, and that guidance meant so much.
It’s a surreal transformation, from dreaming alone in my room and sketching ideas no one ever saw, to having the world finally witness and appreciate my vision. It’s terrifying, but also wonderful, because you realise, you’re not just imagining things. Your ideas have weight, and people connect with them.
AO: I’ve said before that I believe you’re the designer who will redefine what fashion can be – anchored in storytelling, immersive experiences, and emotionally charged worlds that people can intensely feel. Do you see that within your own brand? Would you agree with that?
Hector: I 100% agree. I want this brand to make people feel something. When they watch my shows, I want them to experience emotion, whether it’s shock, happiness, elation, or a moment of recognition where they see themselves reflected in the work. I don’t want them to walk away thinking, ‘Oh, that was nice’, like a show they’ve seen a million times before. Any form of art should make people feel something, and a runway is very much like a theatre. I want people to leave with more than the memory of beautiful clothes. I want them to walk away changed, challenged, and still thinking about it long after it’s over.
AO: When you picture the moment you truly ‘make it,’ how do you imagine that will feel?
Hector: I think it’ll feel like any other day. For me, it’s more about leaving a mark on the world, creating something that empowers people and speaks to them on a deeper level. I want the viewer to think, ‘He understood. He spoke to that part of me.’
AO: Ideally, where do you see yourself in ten years?
Hector: I’d love to see the Hector Maclean brand doing really well. I can also imagine myself directing another fashion house, continuing to grow creatively. Beyond that, I’d like to contribute to other areas, whether through charities or sustainability initiatives. Maybe also living in Paris one day.
I also just wanted to say I’m so thankful for your support and the belief in what I’m doing has meant a lot. Working with you and Nick has been so encouraging and I’m grateful to be growing alongside such an incredible publication that genuinely supports emerging artists and designers.
AO: That’s really kind. I feel the same. It’s exciting to see us growing together as artists, and I know that’ll only continue!
By the time we reached the summit, we’d lost the light in the most perfect way. It was tragic, dark, and beautiful all at once. It was cinematic in the most incredible way.
Read the full feature in HardCOPY Vol.2
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